Sunday, March 20, 2011

Luang Prabang

We spent five wonderful days in Luang Prabang before leaving for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars. Luang Prabang has a great marketing slogan for it’s tourism “Stay another day”.  It works for me, I could easily stay another day in this beautiful, serene little city with it’s wonderful sights, great weather and scrumptious food.  I could also arrange for a return trip at my earliest convenience!  I would stay at the Sok Xai Guest hourse again.  Nice people, clean rooms and a fair price.
Sak Xai Guest House, Maliwan is waiting for me to finish taking pictures




By the time the trip was over I had well over a thousand photographs taken in Laos.   I've culled them down to 100 and posted them at:  http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/jnelson1944/Laos%202011/


Temple Life, Luang Prabong
Mornings here begin with a parade of monks who have a route around the beautiful temple district.  Both locals and tourists line the walk to make merit by offering alms.  This morning there were more tourists than locals.  I don’t know if it was an off day because of Chinese New Year or what.  Somehow today felt less spiritual than previous mornings.  The alms parade begins at daybreak.  You can listen for the gong from the temple which signals it’s start.  I’m told they go by dawn rather than by any set clock time.



We discovered two or three very nice café’s by the river.  It’s so serene to just go sit and have a coffee or soda.  On a Lao pace a single soda can last for a couple of hours.  The views are magnificent on both the Mekong and the river Kan side.   The river feeds into the Mekong here in Luang Prabong.
Love the View
On Sunday we walked across a bamboo bridge over namkan and visited a tribal village that produces hand woven textiles.  It was interesting, but everything they make is quite narrow and not suitable for much other than scarves and table runners.  Still, it was fun to see.
The Bridge of Bamboo
Le Café Ban Vat Sene is amazing!  They have absolutely incredible coffee, marvelous salads and very friendly service.  Maliwan ordered a beef steak and received a pork steak; refused to send it back. The bill indicated pork and everyone was happy.   Went back on Monday and had coffee and just a salad. Mali ordered a cheese and onion quiche that was out of sight!  We had our final supper in Luang Prabong there again;  I had to get another taste of their feta salad and onion quiche.  Delicious!


Le Café Ban Vat Sene
Le Cafe Ban Vat Sene is owned by the same people that have the more famous Le Elephant.  We went there for that reason.  Le Elephant is prettier, more expensive and the food is no better, maybe not quite as good.  Having said that, it's still worth checking out if you are in Luang Prabong for more than a couple of days. 
Le Elephant
On Monday evening we went to the National Ballet Theatre!  Got there just after curtain time and got half price tickets. The entertainment is traditional Lao ballet. The costumes and dancers were great.  It was wonderful!  There were explanations given in Lao/Thai, French and English.  English was his last language, but his efforts helped with the understanding of the different dances.

Lao National Theatre, highly recommended! 
After the ballet we went to the night market where I bought a chess set and half a dozen old French coins.  Stopped by a noodle vendor in the night market and had a bowl of noodles for dinner.  They were so good we went back for a 2nd bowl last night.

On Tuesday we ended up having breakfast at a place called Mystic Café  It’s another one that is on my recommended list.  The Lao style coffee is think and delicious.  The omelets are huge and very tasty.  We’ve decided to have breakfast there tomorrow before we start our journey west.
Not sure which cafe has this, but it's a great sign! 
Our original plan was to see the National museum on Tuesday but ended up climbing Pousi hill which has a marvelous view of the city.  I couldn’t help but notice the old gun placements.  I was told later that they were put up there in 1975 by the Pathet Lao.  Remaining are several concrete structure posts and one small canon or mortar base.
Buddha images on Pousi Hill 

War time left overs
We were actually going to the national museum on Tuesday but it’s closed on Tuesdays so we went on Wednesday.  Other than the fact that the day closed wasn’t mentioned in the Lonely Planet, they did a great job of describing the museum. Why not just read their description in their book.  You really aren’t going to come to Laos without a copy, are you?  

Also on the grounds are you will find the royal car exhibit which includes two old Lincoln Contenintals, one from the 1950’s and one from the 1960’s and a prestine 4 door Edsal sedan.   Also there is the Floating Buddha photo expo which is also worth your time, at least it was mine!

We enjoyed coffee and a light lunch at the Arthouse Café where I met the owner.  Debra is one of two western women who run successful restaurants here.  She’s located with a marvelous view of Namkan, her facility is loaded with original art.

We had dinner at Tamnak Lao which offers fantastic Lao food.   The other place we ate that is worth recommending is the Loung Prabong (LpB) RestauRant overlooking the Mekong.  The Somtom (spicy salad is better than any I’ve had elsewhere, Laos or Thailand.   When I return, I plan to make for photographs of the wonderful monks,  In the meantime enjoy this last one.


Peace and Serenity to you! 




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