Was the silence deafening?

Gentle Reader,

I just realized that there has been nothing new posted here since the 2nd of March.  That is more than a half a year.  Where has the time gone?  Where in the universe has my head been?  Those of you who follow my other blog, Asian Elephant Stories have an idea, but that’s not the whole story.    I’ve also become involved in some rather interesting aspects of living as an ex-patriot in Northern Thailand and plan to post a series of two, three or four articles on that subject in the next few days.   Let me give you a tiny preview.

What if one were to move to Thailand and then find an urge for the familiar?    Well here in Chiang Mai we have something called the Chiang Mai Ex-Pats club which meets monthly, provides presentations of interest and networking opportunities. The club has an SOS element, an excellent concept.  Members who subscribe receive emergency assistance.  There is an extra charge and while it’s only ฿2,000. I would prefer to see it available to all members, but that’s just my opinion.  Personally I think the club is an excellent resource for people who are newly arrived.  There are outside group activities sponsored by the club and several vendors who are affiliated with the club. I’ve used the services of two or three of their favored vendors and have no complaints.   My favorite vendor has to be Fashion King.  I found it necessary to have a suit made.  You will know why when I post my next article “The International Symposium on Local Wisdom and Quality of Life”.   O.K. back to the present.

There is a unique organization called Lanna Care Net.  Their mission is to care for aging foreigners in the Chiang Mai area.  The Thai government is unable to help foreigners and quite often these people are denied help from their country of origin.  An American consulate officer explained that while they would like to help it’s often not politically or fiscally possible. The mission of the consulate is not to care for individual citizens.  I didn’t realize that!   Lanna Care Net (LCN) tries to fill the void, providing volunteers that visit with aging and infirmed foreigners.  They liaise and cooperate with other groups such as the ex-pats club, the various hospitals and even Alcoholics Anonymous.   LCN will have their Christmas Shopping Fair on November 24th.  It will be co-sponsored by the Royal British Legion, another excellent organization.  I would love to have a table and sell photographic art.  However I have a previous engagement which will actually turn into a wedding the day before in Issan. (Oh my goodness, could that be another personal blog article)?

Americans will be familiar with the Veterans of Foreign Wars. I have belonged to VFW posts in the past but was never really involved beyond the bar and the kitchen. I just joined the Chiang Mai VFW post.  If you are an American Veteran I highly recommend you join the VFW where ever you may be, but especially if you are living overseas.  This is an excellent source of information and support.  At my first meeting I found out I made a horrible mistake with my Medicare.  The post service officer is researching solutions. He knows who to ask and perhaps more importantly what to ask.  Another American that I met a couple of years ago was recently in a horrific motor cycle accident, leaving him with a broken neck and a broken back.  The VFW post is all over this.  They have been with him providing both moral and physical report.  A ramp is being donated to allow him access to his home and they are raising money to buy him a motor cycle with a sidecar, custom made to suit his requirements.  These guys are simply the best!  One gentleman I met turned out to be a fellow member of the 46th Special Forces Company (Airborne) Association.

English speaking ex-pats can find many familiar things here.  The backpacker set seem to be delighted with McDonalds and other chain food.  It must be an age thing. Personally I prefer real food. People can  also suffer from “Culture Shock”  My British friends don’t mind that the Thais drive on the left side of the road and I’m more than happy to stand up and respect the King when the national anthem plays at 08:00 and 18:00.  Sometimes the smog is almost unbearable and yet the food usually has flavor. The Thai respect their elders and at 68 I rather enjoy that.  A young man I know was finishing his master’s degree and had no plans for the future.  A Thai friend offered to introduce him to a local university where teaching positions were available.  His response was “No thank you.  I have no intention of uprooting my family, moving half way around the world to a totally different culture”.  Other people seem to be clamoring for an opportunity to live abroad, especially here.  You may soon be able to read my take on this cultural difference. In the meantime there are excellent books on the subject.  The big ones seem to be “Culture Shock” and “Working with the Thais”.

Back to Luangprabang

Let's start with a couple of my favorite shots! 

Luangprabang at night

On the 15^th of February I went back to Luangprabang.  This time I flew on Lao Airlines from Chiangmai.  I had only an evening and a morning before I went to Sayaboury for the national elephant festival, but that’s another story (actually it may be as many as three, stay tuned). On the 23^rd I returned to Luangprabang for the evening, before flying to Bangkok on the morning of the 24^th.    On these stopovers I made no attempt to make new discoveries, rather I chose to enjoy what I knew would be comfortable and restful.   As I did last year, I stayed at the Sokxai Guest House. Next time I’ll likely stay there again.  The place is reasonably priced, clean, well accompanied and most importantly the people are very nice.

Lao Airlines was nice as was Bangkok Airlines.  Bangkok bills themselves at the “Botique Airline”  They even offer a private lounge for their customers which offers complimentary coffee, juice and breads. 

Hostess in the Bangkok Airlines Lounge 

Of course every visit to Luangprabang means opportunities to photograph the monks who in their devotion have become quite the tourist attraction.

Well worth getting up at dawn!

A collection of 50 photos are on line at:  http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/jnelson1944/Luangprabang%20201202/ They include a few candidates for my new photo project idea.  I’ll call it “A few faces of Lao”.  Of the two below, which do you think might make the better front page candidate.  Which one will be more likely to cause the viewer to want to see more? 

He's about my age, not many left from his era.  Laos has suffered so much in war.

She was waiting to give to the monks 

   

Part 3, Photographic Highlights of Siem Reap & The Temples of Angkor

Gentle reader, 

I’m limiting this article to just a few photographs.  These chosen from over 500, may not be the same ones I would choose the next time I look at the group.  The truth is this:  The area is a photographer’s paradise.  I posted just under 200 at http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/jnelson1944/Seam_Reap_201201/  Enjoy! 

During my time in Seam Reap I stayed at the Tan Kang Angkor Hotel, and am happy to recommend them.  Their website is http://www.tankangangkorhotel.com 

Like most other tourists, I headed for the ancient temples of Ankor.  The first stop was at Ta Prohm.  It’s fascinating because it’s been left in pretty much the same condition in which it was found many years ago.  Current noterity includes the fact that Ta Prohm was used to film scenes from Lara Croft, Tomb Raider starring Angelia Jolie.

Hey Movie Lover!  Does this look familiar? 

I went through some of Angkor Thom realizing that I would want to come back at a better time to do some serious photography.  Too much direct sunlight for my taste, and way too many tourists to allow for a pleasant and leisurely visit.  Still I’m delighted to have made this adventure.

My driver took me to Angkor Wat for sunrise.  Next time I’ll have a better idea for photographing this most famous of all temples.  This day provided a delightful self guided tour.  I met a delightful young lady from China and we spent two or more hours photographing together. Her nick name is 11 (Turns out this is because she has a friend whose nick name is 7).  I sort of got the humor and immediately chose 44 as my nickname for the day.  Next time I come back to Cambodia I’ll allocate an entire day to Angkor Wat.

Number Seven ! 

The Banyon is also a place where I would like to spend a whole day.  This is a marvelous complex of some 37 towers each with faces carved upon them.  Most have 4, but some have two or three.  As the light changes this place is truly a photographers dream.

Banteay Srei is another of my favorites. Just as we arrived there was a commotion of sorts.  A man with an small parade following him was chanting loud enough to be heard for some distance.  Mr. Va, my driver, explained that the man was removing some unwanted spirit that was occupying his body.  The spirit would leave him once her arrived at the center of the temple at Banteay Srie.   This is another temple where it would be well worth the time to spend the whole day.

Ghost be gone! 

It’s not just about temples.  Mr. Va recommended we spend a sunset on the water at Kompong Khleang.  The boat was expensive, $40.00 USD.  Had I known and had I wanted to trouble my self I could have recruited another 3 tourists and we would have all gone for $10 a head.  However, this was delightful because for the evening and the sunset there were no other crowds.  A few boats in the water, but on my boat there were just three including Mr Va myself and the boar driver.

In Seam Reap there are photo opportunities, but I spent most of the day light hours outside of town.  The night market provided one nice shot and I thought it a fitting end to this little 3 part story.

Abundant Blessings, 

  

Part 2 Cambodia, Initial Impression on a First Trip

Gentle Reader,

As the title implies my intention is to return to Cambodia.  I find it to be welcoming, extremely interesting and quite unique.  I could return for another vacation, but would not want to do so in early January. I'm happy for the locals, the tourist business is booming.  For me, wanting to be civil and still get a decent photograph amongst hordes of tourists and tour groups, it's frustrating. It's not the ugly Americans here, we are in a minority.  The Koreans, Russians and Chinese are predominant.  Maybe I'll return during the rainy season.  Exactly when is another question.

Tourists Lined up to watch the Sun rise at Ankor Wat January 5, 2012

As it was I came back with over 800 images which I managed to cull to something over 500.  Of those I’ve put just under 200 in PhotoBucket.  You can see them at http://s935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/jnelson1944/Seam_Reap_201201/

There is much written about the border scams and how to avoid them.  Here is what I learned which might save you a few baht / dollars / pounds:  On the Thai side simply walk to the departure stations.  You either have your visa from somewhere else, or you get a visa on arrival in Cambodia.  The Thai visa stations are a scam. They charge you at least twice what it's worth.

Walk across and go to the visa on arrival office. Now you are Poipet Cambodia!  You will need your passport, a passport photo, $20 US.  For whatever reason the Cambodians are now asking for an extra 100 Baht.  (Scam creep from the border)? I didn't have 100 baht visible, they settled for 90.   After the visa is in your passport and your passport is in your hand go get on the free bus.  It will take you to the big bus station on the outskirts of Poipet.  The Cambodians took a lot of grief about scams. There were several comments on different websites indicating the scams were so bad that avoiding Cambodia might be a good idea. Lonely Planet apparently collected tons of complaints. The Cambodian government responded by providing free transportation to the big bus station, which was no doubt a government project. The Thai's have done nothing.  Not surprising as they are not at risk of losing revenue at the departure point. I've never seen a scam at a Thai arrival point. I've regressed, gentle reader.  Take the free bus!  Our driver was instant that we board immediately.  No time for a restroom stop.  Turns out there were better, cleaner restrooms at the big bus station anyway.

At the big bus station several options are available.  I took a $10 seat on a van.
Two hours later I was in Seam Reap.  The highways are in really good condition.  The van drops you off at a central location where you will be met by an ample number of tuk-tuk drivers.  It's fine to barter and if you don't find one pleasant to deal with just choose another.

My driver was Va, I used him for all the time I was there.  Nice enough fellow who knows the area and can help you find anything you want. He has good ideas for photo times.  Sometimes he disagreed with the venerable Lonely Planet.  Most of the time we went with his suggestions, but he is very sensitive to what the customer wants.  His price to me was $20 a day.  Maybe I could have found one cheaper, but maybe not.  It was money well spent.

My Driver Va, and his Tuk-Tuk

The people are small, gentle and serene.  They do not automatically smile as tends to be the habit in most of Thailand.  However when they do smile it's genuine. Most would light up a room!  The amazing thing, at least to me, is that after all they have been through in the past half a century they seem to not hold a grudge. I say they are gentle, but they are also warriors when they need to be; heck, the national sport is Cambodian Kick Boxing.  One day I’ll return and photograph expressions and feelings. There is much to be photographed, learned and written.

The cleaning ladies at the Tan Kang Angkor Hotel where I stayed.

The recent history of these people includes the ravages of the Vietnam war.  America’s involvement included support of the Khmer Rouge.  The Khmer Rouge killed as many as 4,000,000 of their fellow Cambodians!  America dropped of thousands of tons of bombs on their Cambodia. The Vietnamese invaded and, using Cambodian forced labour, put down a mine field that stretched the length of the entire Thai / Cambodian border.  This ordnance is still killing and maiming people!  When I visited the land mine museum and the war museum I was amazed at some ot the things I saw, including unexploded Russian bombs, artillery and explosive devices from America, China, Russia and even Bulgaria.  

My guide at the War Museum.  He spent 4 years as a
demo man in the Cambodian Army fighting the Khmer Rouge! 

I’ll leave you with these rather hard facts and close this with a promise to post another article about my trip to Ankor Wat and a few of the other amazing highlights around Seam Reap Cambodia.

Abundant Blessings,

Part 1 Chiang Mai to Nan Rong and "The Talk" with Maliwan's parents

Gentle reader,

This was written in an internet cafe where I was, by at least 50 years, the oldest customer.  The rest are playing internet games and chattering among themselves. The noise level is such that this will be a good lesson in concentration and maybe an even better lesson in patience.  (I'd really like to unplug a couple sets of speakers, but it's best I remember that all things are impermanent and this shop is here for everyone's pleasure).  Being on the road I without my computer there will be no attempt to include photographs now; I may come back and add a few once I return home to Chiang Mai I think I have a couple of good ones so far.

As you can imagine I'm quite a bit taller than the average Thai and sometimes that presents challenges.  Where to sit on a long bus trip, being one of them.  I learned that if you are in the first seat on the right hand side of the VIP bus there is a storage shelf directly infront of you and at just the right height.  Unlimited leg space is a wonderful thing.  Failing that most seats on the VIP bus are O.K.  The first seat on the left has no room and the legs get quickly cramped.   This is all true, except that if the VIP bus is not a double decker then the first seat has no leg room.  Maliwan bought the tickets to Nan Rong in good faith and was even told the seats had plenty of leg room.  Oh well, the trip was only 13 hours!   Make sure you know which bus style you are buying tickets for, or you could end up with a leg cramp.

For me, main event was "The Talk" with Maliwan's parents about the wedding.   As I write this Maliwan is going to the temple with her mother to talk to the monk and pick the "lucky day".  Who know?  We might have it settled before this gets published.   I'd like to back up here and tell you a little bit about Thai culture, but realize that I feel grossly unqualified to explain any of it.  Having said that this wedding has an importance that I had not considered.  Maliwan's mother feels she has lost face in the village because of her children's divorces, carrying on and so forth. What happens in a small village is gossip and bad mouthing. The upcoming wedding is an opportunity for her parents to "show off" some good from one of their children.  My cultural ignorance leaves me with the best choice being just to go along with the flow.

Maliwan and her parents

My dear friend, teacher and adviser Khun Lek gave me some suggestions about negotiating this wedding.  One of her suggestions was that we should have the ceremony and the party at a hotel.  That way we could control the cost.  In the village it would be acceptable for people to run down to the store for more beer or what ever and just put it on my tab.  Now I'm all in favor of a good party but since I don't drink I'm not going to be in the mood to spend a fortune so other people can get blitzed for free. Lek also gave me some suggestions about negotiating the dowry.   In this culture the groom is expected to give a dowry to the brides family.

So we had "the talk" and her father suggested a dowry and then I suggested a dowry and also mentioned that I intended to have the wedding at a hotel.   The dowry wasn't much of an issue but her mother was devastated by the hotel idea.  Old people would not be able to attend, problems would happen, it would be more expensive and on and on. Clearly it was very important that the wedding and the party be in her home, as tradition dictates.  We hit a brilliant compromise,  the wedding will be at their home, I increased the dowry and her mother will pay for the whole party.  That provides the advantage of my not having to shuffle money into the booze store and let's her control the amount of the dowry that is left over after the party.  If she spends it all, that's fine with me, if she spends only a little, that's fine with me.

Gentle reader, the lucky wedding day is: 23 November 2012. The wedding will be in a small village known as Thabaag. It's about 5 kilometers outside of Nan Rong in Buriram Province. I'm not at all sure how many people will attend.  Most will be from the village, I'm told 20 or 30 but suspect the number may swell.  I have no expectations that any of my family will attend, though they will be invited.  Actually I do have one niece who is trying to make arrangements, I'd be so delighted if she could make the trip. I really have no idea what will happen at this wedding.  The legal marriage may be the act of signing the government papers, not sure if we do that in Nan Rong or Chiang Mai.  Likely is matters not. I asked if we would go to the temple, and was told no.  We will tamboon with the monk, but that's not an actual part of the wedding ceremony.  It's going to be a village celebration at the home of Maliwan's parents.

Rot is really Maliwan's dog, but he likes to hang out with me 

Maliwan's great niece, I love the light in this one

Gun, Maliwan, Kwanjai, and the parents

Roof tops, Nan Rong 

I had lunch with Maliwan the day this article was originally posted.  She asked a very interesting question.  Why do I have this blog?  I received some good feedback from a couple of friends. The blog will continue, though it may take a slightly different path in the future.  More feedback would be welcome.

Abundant Blessings,

Season’s Greetings, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

My Dear Gentle Reader, 

Yes, I wrote something called the 2^nd year, but it’s Christmas and I’m remembering the Christmas letters that my family used to send out with all the news.  I was not as appreciative of them as perhaps I could have been.  Anyway, they inspired me to write this and share with you a few photographs that you may not have seen.

Do you know this was taken? 

I have spent the entire year as a long term volunteer with Save Elephant Foundation (formerly called Elephant Nature Foundation).  I have learned more about me and about positive relationships than I thought possible.  I have adopted the founder, Sangduen “Lek” Chialert as one of my spiritual teachers and I think she is doing a fabulous job!  There is no formal lessons given or anything like that.  People come into the picture and do what they do.  I simply observe how Lek reacts.  She always takes the high road.  To say I have received Abundant Blessings would be a gross understatement. 

Lek inspecting the flood situation 

I am in a loving supportive relationship with my partner Maliwan.  For two years this woman has put up with me.  We actually met on American Thanksgiving Day 2009. The last day of this year will be spent with her parents discussing wedding plans.

Maliwan and her son Gun

In late January – early February we went on a whirlwind trip that took us to Laos and then to several parts of Thailand.   You can go back and read some of the posts if you missed them.  We had a wonderful time.

On the boat to Luang Prabong

River Scene

In late July – early August I went back to the States for a brief visit.  I had the pleasure of going to Lego land with my 5 year old grandson and his mom and dad, spending a bit of time with my California relatives and then a couple days with my niece Kate and her family in Colorado. 

Andy at Lego Land

Kate & the tribe at Rocky Mountain National Park

The first of October we moved to Chiang Mai.  The pace has quickened.  This city has a lot going on and I am within a comfortable walking distance of the SEF office.  The proximity has allowed me the opportunity to get more involved.  Because I was in Chiang Mai at the right moment I had the opportunity to go with the SEF people when they rescued Pang Pornsawan.  I swear that elephant and I immediately ‘clicked’.  She teaches me patience, tolerance and most of all compassion.  Maybe one day I’ll write a whole short story or something about our relationship. Today, the story is a long way from being finished.

A recent visit with Pang Pornsawan

I had the opportunity to spend a day on the truck rescuing and feeding dogs in Bangkok.  I am awe struck by the dedication of the volunteers, the acceptance and serenity of the people effected by this travesty.

Safe and on their way to a better life! 

Stranded on a roof, we can only feed this one.  He's in a panic

My Art Sale Event to help Pang Pornsawan has also taught me a few valuable lessons.  Timing is everything and the event was trumped by the floods in Bangkok.  It’s hard to ask the world to help one elephant when there are thousands of people and their animals trying to survive in a huge flood zone!  

Flood Dogs Reality! 

We moved the date of Pang Pornsawan's Art Sale Event to the 21^st of January and expect a good turnout and are still accepting art work. You can read all about it, and even help by going to the website.

The Chiang Mai Poster for the Pang Porsawan Art Sale Event

The last two months of the year has been spent largely with what I am calling the “Mubu Products Project”.  At the moment that includes two finished books, both authored by Peter Alexander with illustrations by Sergio Paulo.  This is a great project for me because the books contain marvelous examples for children all over the world.  They are based on the childhood of Sangduen “Lek” Chailert.  Check out the website at www.mubustoriescom    We also have a Facebook Page, please go and like The Mubu Book Series - "The Little Girl Who Made a Big Difference". 

Magazine Ad, not the version that was chosen

Last night Maliwan and I were guests at the annual Elephant Nature Park Christmas Party.  It was fabulous.  Different groups put on different ‘shows’.  My two favorites were the mahouts doing a traditional bamboo stick dance, and Darricks family serenading Lek and Darrick with their own re-writes of the 12 days of Christmas. 12 ele’s, 11 pachyderms, 10 thousand acres, 9 dog cages, 8 buffalo…… and a moon bear in a tree.

Christmas is Love! 

I hope your Christmas Holidays are everything you wished and that your new year brings you everything you so richly deserve.

Abundant Blessings, 

A Letter to Santa Claus

Dear Santa Clause,

Yes!  I still believe in you and I believe in lots of other mystical magical things as well.  You well know that in life there are givers and takers. Knowing there is more joy in giving than in receiving, knowing that givers gain and knowing that we are all a part of a greater good, I’ve learned to be very careful about asking.  Self promotion has not served me well in the past, so I’ll ask you to decide if I’ve been good or bad this year.

I believe in sunsets and they are definitely magic! 

If I’ve been bad, please refrain from putting coal in my stocking; it leaves a bad carbon footprint and just isn’t useful.  I big plop of elephant dung would send the message, and I could use it for organic fertilizer!

If I’ve been good please just make a donation to the Save Elephant Foundation (SEF).   It’s really easy.  Just go to http://www.serengetiusa.com and donate.  While you are there be sure to designate the donation for Save Elephant Foundation, and maybe even send them a short email.  Did you know that the Serengeti Foundation makes sure that 100% of your gift goes to the cause of your choice?   May I tell you why I make this Christmas request?   There are many reasons:

Save Elephant Foundation (SEF) operates the Elephant Nature Park (ENP) which is home to 36 elephants who have been rescued.  These elephants eat a lot of fruit and veggies; require medical care and lots of other expensive stuff.

Hanging out at ENP

SEF rescues elephants that are in terrible condition and gives them the best life possible.   I have already told you about Pang Pornsawan but this letter isn’t about her specifically.

My introduction to Pang Pornsawan

SEF supports the elephant community in the Surin area of Thailand.  Recently, at the Thailand’s famous Surin Elephant Festival, SEF sponsored a healthy elephant contest as a way of encouraging the best care possible of the elephants.

First Place Winner - Healthy Elephant Contest

SEF has been very involved in the rescue of dog, cats and other animals from the devastating floods in the areas surrounding Bangkok.  This has been an expensive proposition that has been undertaken with just one concern. How can we best help the animals in trouble?  Some people are stranded with their pets. The SEF team brings them food.  Often the dogs are in too much of a panic to approach, so the team just feeds them where they are.

SEF Dog Rescue Team at an apartment complex

If you take the time and trouble to make a small donation it will help.

Flood dog finds food thrown to him by SEF rescue team

Are you going to pay income taxes for 2011?   Would a charitable contribution help lower your tax payment?   Well you should know that the Serengeti Foundation is a registered 501c non-profit.  Donating through them means you have helped SEF and it means that you have taken control of how some of your hard earned money is to be used.

Abundant Blessings to you and Thank you!

Jerry